Picture this: you’re on the market for a new moisturizer. Your skin isn’t bad, but you’re looking for something that could be better. On your search you come across ingredients like retinoids, BHAs, AHAs, glycerin, vitamin C, etc. Sure, a lot of the products are labeled with what skin problems are for, but what do they MEAN? I’m here to breakdown all those key ingredients and what to look for in skincare products so you can easily curate a skincare routine thats perfect for you.
Let’s start with Retinoids, which are a family of vitamin A derivatives. Retinoids accelerate the speed of skin cell renewal and increase collagen production. This benefits the skin in both preventing clogged pores leading to acne and keeps skin looking younger, brighter and plumper. Retinoic acid is a prescription strength version, best known as tretinoin or Retin-A. It’s the strongest topical retinoid and works the fastest (within a few months you will see a difference), but you will need a doctor’s visit to get it. Differin has an OTC version called adapalene that can help acne sufferers and the beginning of wrinkles without the costly appointment to a dermatologist. Retinol is found in many OTC skincare products and it converts to retinoic acid while sitting on the skin, so it takes much longer to work (several months to a year). Most everyone can benefit from some sore of retinoid in their skincare routine. If you’re not seeing the results you want with OTC options, speak to a dermatologist about tretinoin.
Another product that can brighten the skin is Vitamin C. It’s an antioxidant so it works by neutralizing free radicals on your skin and aids in the skin’s regeneration process- it also is thought to help prevent cancerous developments from UV rays. Its acidic nature means it triggers the skin healing process which increases production of collagen and elastin. But most notably, it can help fade dark spots and discoloration. The most stable form of is called ascorbic acid and it is best absorbed in the form of a serum. So basically, it’s also an ingredient that should be a staple in most everyone’s beauty cabinet, just start slow as it can be an irritant for sensitive skin. There’s some debate as to whether using it at the same time of day as retinol can cause irritation, so do what works best for you.
Hyaluronic acid is my favorite skincare ingredient. Besides a few rare allergies (hyaluronic acid is naturally occurring in the body) this works for all skin types. It is a humectant so it attracts and holds water in your skin- it can hold up to 1,000 times its weight in water. It can be used from anything to rehydrating skin to plumping wrinkles and fine lines. Even oily skin types can benefit from this miracle ingredient as in some people it may reduce oil production. Glycerin is a similar ingredient and is also a humectant, but gets deeper into the skin to restore the moisture barrier. Together, they’re stronger than individually- glycerin can lock in place the moisture drawn in from the hyaluronic acid.
Emollients and Occlusives are helpful for dryer skin types. There are literally SO many types of these ingredients, so I’m going to touch on them as a whole. Emollients soften the skin without adding moisture by filling in the gaps between skin cells. They can improve the look of damaged or dry skin. They can be either water based or oil based and include aloe vera, shea butter, and ceramides. They improve the appearance and feel of skin. Occlusives work by holding moisture in the skin. They lay on top of the skin and prevent water loss. They are typically oil based and have a tendency to be comedogenic, so those prone to acne be wary. There are a large variety of occlusives that include petroleum jelly, silicones, and natural oils like rosehip. So basically humectants draw moisture into the skin, emollients soften and improve the skins appearance, and occlusives seal it all in.
Peptides are essentially an anti-aging ingredient. They are made up of amino acids which are the building blocks for proteins in your skin such as collagen and elastin. When you put them on your skin, it revs up your skin cell renewal process and can help smooth wrinkles and give you a more youthful complexion. Peptides work best in conjunction with other anti-aging ingredients, but they are a wonderful addition to your routine!
AHAs or Alpha Hydroxy Acids are a group of water-soluble chemical exfoliants. The most common you’ll find are glycolic and lactic acid but citric and malic acid can also be found. They work on the very top layer of skin to slough off dead skin cells by dissolving the bonds that hold them together. They come in very gentle concentrations all the way up to chemical peel level concentrations (which should only be done by a licensed esthetician or dermatologist). They can come in most every skincare form from serums, to toners, to masks. Regular exfoliation is key to a bright complexion, but too often can irritate the skin, so this may be an ingredient you have to play around with to find out where it fits in your skincare routine.
Salicylic Acid is also know as a BHA or Beta Hydroxy Acid. It is also by far the most common BHA on the market, so I’ll focus on this one. Salicylic acid is an oil soluble acid that can get even deeper into the pores than AHAs, so it can dissolve all of that pore clogging gunk that leads to acne. This ingredient is a MUST for oily skin types, as it is also anti-inflammatory. It can also be found in most every form, but it’s important to check the ingredients as a lot of acne products also have denatured alcohol in them- which can further irritate skin and cause more oil production.
Last but not least is Benzoyl Peroxide. Benzoyl peroxide is a tried and true medication for treating mild to moderate acne. It works by killing the bacteria that causes acne and helps exfoliate and remove dead skin cells. While very beneficial for inflammatory acne, it does have a few drawbacks to consider. It can be very drying and irritating, especially at the beginning and in conjunction with other acne medications (like retinol and salicylic acid). If you can make it through the redness and irritation your skin typically does adjust after a few weeks, but be sure to have a good moisturizer on hand in the mean time. It also will bleach any fabric it touches. Sulfur may be a good, albeit weaker, alternative. It is antibacterial and anti-inflammatory in addition to helping with skin cell turnover.
I could go on and on about specific ingredients in skincare as there are so many- and growing all the time- but these are the most common ones I see. I hope this could help you in making selections for your skincare moving forward!